The fertile Bolaven Plateau stretches across the North east of the Champasak province and the provinces Salavan and Sekong. The region is known for its cold climate, impressive waterfalls, fertile ground and its coffee-plantations. During the second Indo-Chinese war the area has been bombarded heavily.

About 100 years ago, the French started cultivating coffee and planting rubber trees and bananas. After the independence in the '50s of the last century, many French left, and the others left in the '60s, when bombardments by the Americans became too heavy. Both the Americans and the North Vietnamese considered it strategically important to control the Bolaven Plateau. Evidence of this can be found, as the area is still full of UXO (unexploded ordnance). Clearing the UXO will take many years, but in the areas that are relatively clear, both local farmers and big companies have taken up growing coffee again. Other local products growing here include fruit, cardamom and rattan.

The largest ethnic group on the plateau is the Laven (Bolaven means 'house of Laven'). Several other Mon-Khmer groups are living in this area. Among them are the Alak, Katu, Ta-oy (Tahoy) and Suay. The villages of the Katu and Alak have a typical layout, with palm leave-covered houses standing in a large circle. A particular habit at the Katu is that they have prepared a coffin for every family member at life already. These coffins are stored under the houses until they will be needed.

The Suay are allegedly the best elephant trainers. Although less and less elephants are being used, you may still find a few working on the land and dragging timber.

Some women of the Alak, Katu en Laven still have tattoos in their face. As the Lao influence in this area increases, this tradition seems to disappear slowly.

It is possible to visit several Katu and Alak villages along the way between Pakse and Paksong, in the west of Bolaven Plateau or along the way from Muang Tha Taeng (That Heng) on the plateau to Beng, in the Salavan province. Some other villages lie at walking distance from the of Tad Lo waterfalls and along route 20. A large market, which is visited by several minorities from the area, can be found in Lao Ngam, about 40 kilometres east of Pakse. (not to be confused with Muang Lao Ngam on the road to Salavan) On the plateau you can see some spectacular waterfalls, like for example the Tad Fan, a few kilometres west of Paksong, and the Tad Lo, along route 20 to Salavan.

• Bolaven Plateau Laos Travel info